A regularly serviced bike lasts around three times as long as a neglected one and costs far less in repairs. Maintenance is not complicated either — most of it is one minute before a ride and fifteen minutes a month. Here is the schedule we recommend.
Before every ride: the one-minute M-Check
It is called the M-Check because your eye traces an M over the bike: from the front hub up to the bars, down to the bottom bracket and pedals, up to the saddle, and down to the rear hub.
- 1.Squeeze each tyre — it should feel firm. Soft means pump it.
- 2.Pull both brakes — they must bite before the lever touches the bar.
- 3.Rock the front wheel side to side — play means a loose axle nut.
- 4.Turn the cranks by hand — the chain should run smoothly with no dry rasping.
- 5.Twist the saddle and bars by hand — neither should move.
Weekly
- Check tyre pressure with a gauge and inflate to the correct figure — tyres lose 5–15% of their air a week naturally.
- Wipe the chain with a dry cloth — grit wears chains out, not mileage.
- Look at the brake pads — if the grooves have disappeared, it is time to replace them.
Lubricating the chain: the right way
This is the single most important maintenance task, and the one most people get wrong. A dry chain chews through the sprockets and costs four times as much to put right. An over-lubricated chain collects dust and turns into abrasive paste.
- 1.Wipe the chain thoroughly with a dry rag while back-pedalling.
- 2.Apply one drop of lube per link while turning the cranks slowly — one full revolution only.
- 3.Wait two minutes for the lube to penetrate the rollers.
- 4.Wipe all the excess off the outside with a clean rag — the chain should look dry outside and be lubricated inside.
Monthly
- Lubricate the chain (or every 150–200 km, or after any wash or rain).
- Tighten everything: saddle, bars, pedals and wheel nuts.
- Inspect brake and gear cables — replace any that are rusted or have broken strands.
- Spin each wheel slowly and look for a wobble (it shows as the rim moving towards and away from the brake pad).
- Wash the bike with soapy water — caked dirt hides cracks.
Every six months: a workshop service
Some jobs need specialist tools and experience and belong in a workshop. If you ride daily or on dirt roads, shorten this interval to three months.
- Wheel truing (adjusting spoke tension so the rim runs straight).
- Precise gear indexing and limit-screw setting.
- Inspecting and greasing the headset, hub and bottom bracket bearings.
- Measuring chain wear with a gauge — a worn chain destroys the sprockets.
- A full frame inspection for cracks, especially around the welds.
Notes for the Egyptian climate
- Dust, not rain, is the main enemy. Wipe the chain more often if you ride farm roads.
- Extreme heat raises tyre pressure. Do not inflate to the maximum on a summer afternoon — drop 5 psi.
- If you ride near a canal or in humid air, dry and lubricate the chain the same day.
- Store the bike in shade — direct sun breaks down rubber and plastic quickly.
How often should I replace the chain?
Roughly every 2,000–3,000 km, or when a chain wear gauge reads 0.75%. Replacing it on time saves you replacing the sprockets too — and sprockets cost far more than a chain.
Can I wash my bike with a pressure hose?
No. High pressure drives water past the bearing seals and flushes out the grease; months later the hub is rusted inside. Use a bucket of soapy water and a brush, with a gentle hose at most.
My brakes squeal — what fixes it?
Usually the pad is hitting the rim dead square. The fix is toe-in: the mechanic angles the pad slightly so its leading edge touches first. Sometimes it is contamination on the rim — clean it with alcohol.
