No lock is unbreakable — all a lock does is make stealing your bike take more time, more noise and more effort than the bike next to it. The goal is not impossibility, it is being the harder target. A decent lock plus the right locking technique achieves that.
Lock types compared
| Type | Cut resistance | Weight | Locking flexibility | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| U-lock | Highest | Medium (1 – 1.5 kg) | Limited (short reach) | Long street stops |
| Heavy chain 8 mm+ | High | Heaviest (1.5 – 3 kg) | Excellent (long reach) | Locking to distant posts |
| Light chain 4–6 mm | Medium | Light | Good | Short stops |
| Steel cable | Low | Lightest | Excellent | A few minutes, or securing a wheel |
| Folding lock | High | Medium | Good | A balance of security and bulk |
How to lock up properly
- 1.Lock the frame — not just a wheel. A wheel comes off in two seconds, leaving you the wheel and them the bike.
- 2.Lock to something genuinely fixed: a lamp post, railings set in concrete, or a bike stand. Not a sapling, and not a post the lock can be lifted off the top of.
- 3.Keep the lock as tight as possible — the empty space inside a lock is exactly where a crowbar goes.
- 4.Keep the lock off the ground — the ground gives them a hard surface to lever against.
- 5.Face the keyhole downwards — it makes tool access harder.
- 6.If you carry two locks, use them in different places — two different types need two different tools.
How much to spend on a lock
The accepted rule is 5–10% of the bike’s price. A 12,000 EGP bike deserves a 600–1,200 EGP lock. Spending less than that on an expensive bike turns the lock into decoration.
Parking spots: best and worst
- Best: somewhere busy, lit and overlooked — thieves hate an audience.
- Good: next to other bikes locked less securely than yours.
- Bad: an empty side street, a dark garage, or behind a building.
- Worst: the same spot at the same time every day — that turns your bike into a planned target.
Free extra measures
- Photograph the bike from every angle and keep the images.
- Record the frame number (stamped under the bottom bracket) somewhere safe.
- Add a distinctive mark or sticker — it makes the bike harder to resell and easier for you to identify.
- If the bike is expensive, do not leave it on the street at all — take it inside.
U-lock or chain?
A U-lock resists cutting better but is short, so you must park close to the anchor. A chain is longer and more flexible and will loop around anything, but it is heavier. Park in the same spot with a proper stand? Take the U-lock. Park in varied places? Take an 8 mm chain.
Do I need to secure the wheels too?
If your wheels have quick-release skewers, yes — the front wheel is the easiest thing to steal. Loop the lock through the frame and front wheel together, or add a cable for the rear.
My bike was stolen — what now?
File a police report immediately with the frame number, photos and receipt. Then watch local second-hand bike groups on Facebook — most stolen bikes appear there within two weeks. If you find it, do not try to recover it yourself — tell the police.
